Post by jeremy on Oct 19, 2011 7:01:36 GMT -8
I drive it like I stole it. bought it new in March 2007. 2.0L zx3
This summer was a tough one on the little car. the heavy rains we had 2 weeks ago may have been the silver bullet that i think killed it,
FSWerks CAI sucked up water and vapor locked it.. I got it running. sounded good. Swapped out fluids but I tossed a connecting rod through the bottom of the motor when takin off from a light.
Called my buddy. towed it, he called me telling me a junk dealer has a motor $550 6m/6000m warrenty. with 35k miles on it
not great but.. not bad...
Plans to flush new engine and put in my normal engine oils.. Mobile 1 Syn, and Royal Purple.
Engine mounts are 1 year old. so not changing them.I own FSwerks CAI, I have the fswerks stealth exaust. Poly Mounts
and was thinking about installing a underpully. but my main question is without spendin much since this is going to cost a bundle what should I consider..
is a 2.3L an option that is cost effective if so, other then the Block what should I consider replacing.. never explored the 2.3L can it take abuse.
should I just do a race headers since I do not need smog as I am registered in Nye County?
Would like some input before I buy the motor.
Here is what I gathered from[glow=red,2,300] FF [/glow]website.
2007 Ford Focus 2.0L Engine swap.
1. Take all accessory and other parts attached to block
2. Put 2.0 intake manifold on 2.3 - Using the 2.3 IM will require the Harnest and computer.
3. Buy 2.3 pass motor mount(or use washers to raise your current one by 1/2 an inch) $6
4. Redrill dip stick from 2.0 to fit 2.3 ( Also you can't get the oil dipstick for the 2.3 as it is made for the 2.3 IM and will not bolt up correctly to your 2.0 IM. You have to drill a hole in the 2.0 dipstick tube if you are using the 2.0 IM.)
5. Tune Engine to 2.3L specs
6. Accessory belt for 2.3L (belt about $25)
The 2.3 IM is probably more restrictive overall because of the tumble flaps, and the only benefit to it is that it supposedly helps with low end torque. Honestly it's not worth the effort to use it, since its will require a new wire harness and ECU. If you ever get an aftermarket IM like Cosworth, it would be a complete waste of time anyway.
The 2.3 IM has a set of tumble flaps that the 2.0 IM does not have. Thus if you plan to use it you will need the harness and the ECU from the 2.3 in order to utilize it. That is why I recommended that you stick with your 2.0 IM and keep it simple.
Also it should run OK as long as you don't WOT (floor pedal) till you get a tune. The ECU is able to make adjustments to the A/F ratio up to %23 off from the manufactures settings, however at WOT the adjustments are disabled.
When it comes time to just the long block (engine by itself) all the D23's are the same from 03-07. The 03-04 PZEV models will have an aluminum valve cover however.
So does anyone have a good lead on a motor? Does anyone here in vegas Tune motors?
This summer was a tough one on the little car. the heavy rains we had 2 weeks ago may have been the silver bullet that i think killed it,
FSWerks CAI sucked up water and vapor locked it.. I got it running. sounded good. Swapped out fluids but I tossed a connecting rod through the bottom of the motor when takin off from a light.
Called my buddy. towed it, he called me telling me a junk dealer has a motor $550 6m/6000m warrenty. with 35k miles on it
not great but.. not bad...
Plans to flush new engine and put in my normal engine oils.. Mobile 1 Syn, and Royal Purple.
Engine mounts are 1 year old. so not changing them.I own FSwerks CAI, I have the fswerks stealth exaust. Poly Mounts
and was thinking about installing a underpully. but my main question is without spendin much since this is going to cost a bundle what should I consider..
is a 2.3L an option that is cost effective if so, other then the Block what should I consider replacing.. never explored the 2.3L can it take abuse.
should I just do a race headers since I do not need smog as I am registered in Nye County?
Would like some input before I buy the motor.
Here is what I gathered from[glow=red,2,300] FF [/glow]website.
2007 Ford Focus 2.0L Engine swap.
1. Take all accessory and other parts attached to block
2. Put 2.0 intake manifold on 2.3 - Using the 2.3 IM will require the Harnest and computer.
3. Buy 2.3 pass motor mount(or use washers to raise your current one by 1/2 an inch) $6
4. Redrill dip stick from 2.0 to fit 2.3 ( Also you can't get the oil dipstick for the 2.3 as it is made for the 2.3 IM and will not bolt up correctly to your 2.0 IM. You have to drill a hole in the 2.0 dipstick tube if you are using the 2.0 IM.)
5. Tune Engine to 2.3L specs
6. Accessory belt for 2.3L (belt about $25)
The 2.3 IM is probably more restrictive overall because of the tumble flaps, and the only benefit to it is that it supposedly helps with low end torque. Honestly it's not worth the effort to use it, since its will require a new wire harness and ECU. If you ever get an aftermarket IM like Cosworth, it would be a complete waste of time anyway.
The 2.3 IM has a set of tumble flaps that the 2.0 IM does not have. Thus if you plan to use it you will need the harness and the ECU from the 2.3 in order to utilize it. That is why I recommended that you stick with your 2.0 IM and keep it simple.
Also it should run OK as long as you don't WOT (floor pedal) till you get a tune. The ECU is able to make adjustments to the A/F ratio up to %23 off from the manufactures settings, however at WOT the adjustments are disabled.
When it comes time to just the long block (engine by itself) all the D23's are the same from 03-07. The 03-04 PZEV models will have an aluminum valve cover however.
So does anyone have a good lead on a motor? Does anyone here in vegas Tune motors?
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